Embarking on a quilting project is an exciting journey, but choosing the right fabric can feel overwhelming. Are you a beginner quilter, confused by the vast array of options? Or perhaps a sewing enthusiast venturing into quilting for the first time? Even experienced quilters can benefit from a deeper understanding of their materials. Using the wrong fabric can lead to frustration – fabric that frays excessively, distorts during sewing, or doesn’t hold up well over time. This can waste precious time and materials and ultimately result in a disappointing finished quilt.

This comprehensive guide demystifies quilting fabric. You’ll gain a clear understanding of what defines “quilting fabric,” its key characteristics and the different types available. We’ll compare it to other fabrics, explain how to choose the best options for your projects and provide practical tips for success. After reading, you’ll be empowered to confidently select the perfect fabrics for your quilting journey, ensuring beautiful, durable and enjoyable creations.

1. Defining “Quilting Fabric”

What exactly is quilting fabric? In the broadest sense, quilting fabric is any material that can be used to sew a quilt. However, in the quilting world, the term typically refers to high-quality, 100% cotton fabric specifically designed for quiltmaking.

A quilt is traditionally constructed with three layers:

1. Quilt Top: The decorative top layer, often pieced together from smaller pieces of fabric.
2. Batting: A layer of insulation (often cotton, polyester, wool, or a blend) that provides warmth and loft.
3. Backing: The bottom layer of the quilt, which encases the batting and provides a finished back.

Quilting fabric is primarily used for the quilt top and can also be used for the backing. While this article will focus primarily on 100% cotton quilting fabric, we’ll also touch on other fabric options suitable for quilting.

2. Why 100% Cotton is King (and Queen) of Quilting Fabric

While other fabrics can be used, 100% cotton remains the overwhelming favorite and most recommended choice for quilting fabric. This preference is due to a combination of factors that contribute to a successful and enjoyable quilting experience.

2.1 The Magic of the Plain Weave

Most quilting cotton features a plain weave, also known as a tabby weave. This is the simplest and most basic weave structure.

• Plain Weave Structure: In a plain weave, each weft yarn (the yarn that runs crosswise) passes over one warp yarn (the yarn that runs lengthwise) and then under the next warp yarn, in a consistent, alternating pattern.

This simple over-under pattern creates a fabric with several key advantages for quilting:

• Stability: The plain weave provides a stable fabric that is less prone to stretching or distorting during cutting, piecing and quilting. This is crucial for creating accurate quilt blocks and ensuring the finished quilt lies flat.
• Minimal Fraying: The tight, even weave structure of plain weave reduces fraying at the cut edges of the fabric. This makes it easier to work with, especially when piecing together small shapes.
• Ease of Cutting and Piecing: The stability and minimal fraying of plain weave fabric make it easy to cut accurate shapes and sew them together precisely. This is essential for achieving clean lines and well-matched seams in your quilt blocks.
• Durability: The plain weave, combined with the inherent strength of cotton fibers, contributes to the overall durability of the finished quilt.

The plain weave is like the foundation of a house – it provides a strong, stable base for your quilt.

2.2 Thread Count: The Higher, the Better (Usually)

Thread count refers to the number of threads woven into one square inch of fabric. It’s a measure of fabric density.

• Higher Thread Count: Generally indicates a:
  • Smoother fabric surface: The threads are packed more tightly together, creating a softer feel.
  • Greater durability: The denser weave is more resistant to wear and tear.
  • Less shrinkage: The tighter weave is less likely to shrink significantly when washed.
• Good Quality Quilting Cotton: Typically has a thread count between 60 to 75 threads per inch.
• High Quality Quilting Cotton: Can have a thread count of up to 200 threads per inch or even higher.

While thread count is a useful indicator of quality, it’s not the only factor. The quality of the cotton fibers themselves (see “Staple Length” below) also plays a significant role.

Hold the fabric up to the light; if it’s easily seen through, it likely has a lower thread count.

2.3 Staple Length: Long and Strong

Staple length refers to the length of the individual cotton fibers used to make the yarn. Cotton fibers can vary considerably in length.

• Short-staple cotton: Has shorter fibers (typically less than 1 1/8 inch or about 2.8cm). This results in:
  • More linting and pilling.
  • A slightly rougher texture.
  • Less durability.
• Long-staple cotton: Has longer fibers (ranging from 1 1/8 inch to 1 1/4 inch or about 2.8-3.2cm). This results in:
  • Stronger yarn.
  • A smoother fabric surface.
  • Less linting and pilling.
  • Greater durability.
• Extra Long-staple Cotton: Has longer fibers( over 1 3/8 inch or 3.5 cm).

High-quality quilting fabric is often made with long-staple cotton or extra-long staple cotton for its superior strength, smoothness and longevity. Two well-known examples of extra-long-staple cotton varieties often used in premium quilting fabrics are:

• Pima cotton: Grown primarily in the United States, Pima cotton is prized for its softness, strength and luster.
• Egyptian cotton: Grown in Egypt, this cotton is renowned for its extra-long, fine fibers, resulting in exceptionally soft, smooth and durable fabric.

The longer the staple length, the stronger, smoother and more durable the resulting fabric will be. This contributes to a quilt that will withstand years of use and washing.

2.4 Colorfastness and Shrinkage: Pre-washing is Key

High-quality quilting cotton is manufactured with an emphasis on:

• Minimal Shrinkage: To ensure that your carefully pieced quilt blocks and the finished quilt maintain their size and shape after washing.
• Good Colorfastness: To prevent the vibrant colors and intricate patterns from bleeding or fading during washing.

However, even with these qualities, it’s almost universally recommended to pre-wash quilting fabric before starting a quilting project. Pre-washing serves several important purposes:

• Removes Excess Dyes: Washing removes any loose dye that might bleed during the first wash of the finished quilt.
• Pre-shrinks the Fabric: Cotton fabric can shrink and pre-washing allows this shrinkage to happen before you cut and sew your pieces, ensuring your quilt blocks remain the correct size.
• Tests for Colorfastness: Pre-washing allows you to see if any colors are going to bleed significantly. If you notice significant bleeding, you can take steps to address it (e.g., using color catchers) before incorporating that fabric into your quilt.
• Removes Sizing and Chemicals: Fabrics are often treated with sizing (a starch-like substance) or other chemicals during manufacturing. Pre-washing removes these, resulting in a softer fabric that’s more pleasant to work with.

How to Test for Colorfastness:

1. Dampen a small piece of white paper towel or fabric.
2. Press the damp paper towel firmly onto a corner or edge of the quilting fabric, especially on darker or more vibrant colors.
3. Check the paper towel. If any color transfers to the paper towel, the fabric is likely to bleed.

2.5 Durability and Longevity: Built to Last

The combination of a tight, plain weave, high-quality cotton create fabric with great durability, last for a long time.

3. Beyond Quilting Cotton: Exploring Other Quilting Fabrics

While 100% cotton quilting fabric is the most popular and generally recommended choice, especially for beginners, other fabrics can be used in quilting, each offering its own unique characteristics and potential drawbacks.

3.1 Quilter’s Weight Cotton

A very popular and standard option. It’s durable with a good thickness that doesn’t stretch easily and holds its shape. It cuts very effortlessly and the edges are stiff and don’t fray quickly.

3.2 Voile: The Light and Airy Option

Voile is a lightweight, semi-sheer fabric, typically made from cotton or a cotton blend. It has a very soft and silky hand feel, making it pleasant to work with and comfortable against the skin.

• Uses: Voile is often used for:
  1. Lightweight quilts: Where a very soft, drapable quilt is desired.
  2. Summer quilts: Its breathability makes it suitable for warmer weather.
  3. Backing fabric: Providing a soft and lightweight backing for quilts.
  4. Garment sewing: Airy blouses, summer dresses, flowing skirts and scarves.
• Considerations: Voile is more delicate than traditional quilting cotton and may require more careful handling during cutting and sewing. It can also be more prone to fraying.

3.3 Cotton Flannel: Cozy and Cuddly

Flannel is a soft, napped fabric, typically made from cotton, known for its warmth and coziness. The napping process creates a fuzzy surface on one or both sides of the fabric.

• Uses: Flannel is a popular choice for:
  1. Baby quilts: Its softness and warmth are perfect for babies.
  2. Winter quilts: Providing extra warmth and a cozy feel.
  3. Rag quilts: Where the seams are exposed and frayed, creating a soft, textured look.
• Considerations: Flannel can be prone to significant shrinkage, so pre-washing is essential. It also tends to fray more than regular quilting cotton, so wider seam allowances may be advisable.

3.4 Quilter’s Linen: Texture and Style

Quilter’s linen, despite its name, is usually 100% cotton. It’s a cotton fabric that has been woven to mimic the look and texture of linen. It offers a more textured and visually interesting surface compared to standard quilting cotton.

• Uses: Quilter’s linen is used to add visual interest and texture to quilts. It can be used for quilt tops, backings, or even for appliqué.
• Considerations: While easier to care for than true linen, quilter’s linen can still shrink, so pre-washing is recommended.

3.5 Wool: Warmth and Loft

Wool is a natural fiber known for its exceptional warmth and insulating properties.

• Uses: mildew and mold resistant, flame-resistant and doesn’t fray easily.
• Uses: Wool is used to create very warm and lofty quilts. It can be used for both the quilt top and the batting.
• Considerations: Wool can be more expensive than cotton. It may require special care, such as hand-washing or dry cleaning and avoiding high heat. Fewer color and print options are available.

3.6 Cotton Decorating Fabric

Heavier than quilter’s weight cotton with a sateen finish, suitable for quilted home decorations and accessories but lacks drapability.

3.7 Essex Linen

Essex Linen is a natural fiber blend of 55% linen and 45% cotton, excellent for quilts and sewing home decor.

3.8 Unbleached Cotton

Unbleached cotton doesn’t undergo bleaching, maintaining its natural color and imperfections.

3.9 Organic Cotton

Organic cotton is grown without the use of synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or genetically modified organisms (GMOs). It is a more environmentally friendly option than conventionally grown cotton.

• Uses: Organic cotton can be used for any quilting project where you would use regular cotton.
• Considerations: Organic cotton may be slightly more expensive than conventional cotton.

3.10 Batik Fabric: Unique and Vibrant

Batik is a fabric made using a wax-resist dyeing technique. This traditional method, often associated with Indonesian textiles, involves applying wax to areas of the fabric to prevent them from absorbing dye. This creates intricate patterns and designs.

• Uses: Batik fabrics are prized for their rich colors, unique patterns and artistic appeal. They add a distinctive touch to quilts.
• Characteristics:
  1. Often have a higher thread count than regular quilting cotton.
  2. May have a slightly stiffer hand feel due to the wax and dye used in the process.
  3. Pre-washing is essential to remove excess wax and dye and to test for colorfastness.

3.11 Silk, Polyester and Blends: Proceed with Caution

While less common for traditional quilting, silk, polyester and blends can be used, but they present certain challenges and are generally not recommended for beginners.

• Silk:
  1. Pros: Beautiful, luxurious, drapes well.
  2. Cons: Very delicate, expensive, requires special care (often dry cleaning), can be difficult to work with.
• Polyester:
  1. Pros: Durable, affordable, wrinkle-resistant.
  2. Cons: Less breathable than cotton, can have a different feel, may not be as suitable for traditional quilting.
• Blends (e.g., cotton/polyester):
  1. Pros: Can combine the benefits of different fibers (e.g., softness of cotton with durability of polyester).
  2. Cons: Can be unpredictable in terms of shrinkage, colorfastness and how they behave during quilting.

If you choose to use these fabrics, be prepared for potential challenges and consider your skill level.

4. Quilting Fabric vs. Apparel Fabric: What’s the Difference?

While both quilting fabric and apparel fabric can be made from cotton, there are key distinctions that make them suited for their respective purposes. Understanding these differences will help you choose the right fabric for your project.

4.1 Purpose and Intended Use

• Quilting Fabric: Primarily designed for making quilts. This means it’s engineered for durability, stability and ease of piecing (sewing small pieces of fabric together).
• Apparel Fabric: Designed for making clothing. This means the focus is on drape, comfort against the skin and a wide range of textures, weaves and fiber contents.

4.2 Drape and Structure

• Quilting Fabric: Tends to be stiffer and hold its shape well. This is important for creating flat, even quilt blocks that can be easily sewn together. It generally doesn’t have the fluid drape needed for most clothing.
• Apparel Fabric: Chosen for its drape – how the fabric falls and flows on the body. This varies greatly depending on the fabric type (e.g., silk charmeuse will drape very differently than denim). Apparel fabrics are designed to conform to the curves of the body.

4.3 Durability and Wear

• Quilting Fabric: Designed for long-term durability to withstand repeated use and washing as a quilt. It’s meant to hold up to being layered, stitched and handled.
• Apparel Fabric: Durability varies widely depending on the type of garment and the fabric used. Some apparel fabrics are very delicate (e.g., lace), while others are quite durable (e.g., denim). The focus is on comfort and wearability as clothing.

4.4 Width

• Quilting Fabric: Typically comes in 44-45 inch (112-115 cm) widths.
• Apparel Fabric: Tends to be wider, often 50-60 inches (127-152 cm) or more, to accommodate pattern pieces for garments.

4.5 Cost

• Quilting Fabric: Can often be more expensive than comparable apparel fabrics, reflecting its higher quality (tighter weave, better dyes, often long-staple cotton).
• Apparel Fabric: Price varies greatly depending on fiber content, weave and brand.

4.6 Can Quilting Cotton Be Used for Clothing?

The short answer is yes, but with caveats. Quilting cotton can be used for clothing, but it’s generally best suited for more structured garments where its stiffness and lack of drape are not a disadvantage.

Good choices for quilting cotton:

• A-line skirts: The stiffness of quilting cotton can help an A-line skirt hold its shape.
• Simple dresses: (with less shaping)
• Button-up shirts: If you prefer a crisper, more structured look.
• Structured jackets or vests.
• Pajamas: Where comfort and durability are more important than drape.
• Aprons
• Tote bags

Less suitable for quilting cotton:

• Flowing dresses or skirts: That require a lot of drape.
• Close-fitting garments: That need to conform to the body’s curves.
• Anything requiring a soft, fluid fabric.

Keep in mind that garments made from quilting cotton may have a boxier, less flowing appearance than those made from typical apparel fabrics. The stiffer nature of quilting cotton can make it less comfortable for garments worn close to the skin.

5. Forms and Availability: Where to Find Quilting Fabric

Quilting fabric is available in a variety of forms, catering to different project needs and preferences.

5.1 By the Yard/Metre

Like most fabrics, quilting fabric is commonly sold by the yard (in the United States and some other countries) or by the metre (in many other parts of the world). This allows you to purchase continuous lengths of fabric, suitable for larger projects or when you need a specific amount of a particular fabric.

5.2 Pre-cuts: Fat Quarters, Fat Eighths and More

One of the unique aspects of the quilting world is the prevalence of pre-cut fabric bundles. These are pre-cut pieces of fabric, often from a coordinated collection, that are sold in specific sizes. Pre-cuts offer several advantages:

• Variety: They provide a variety of prints and colors in a single, coordinated bundle.
• Convenience: They save time and effort, as the fabric is already cut into usable sizes.
• Reduced Waste: They minimize fabric waste, especially for smaller projects.

Here are some of the most common pre-cut sizes:

• Fat Quarter: A fat quarter is a pre-cut piece of fabric that measures approximately 18 x 22 inches. It’s created by taking a half-yard of fabric (which is typically 44 inches wide) and cutting it in half again along the width. This results in a more “square-ish” piece of fabric than a traditional quarter-yard cut (which would be 9 x 44 inches). Fat quarters are incredibly popular in quilting, as they provide a usable amount of fabric without needing to purchase a full yard.
• Fat Eighth: A fat eighth is half of a fat quarter, measuring approximately 9 x 22 inches.
• Charm Pack: Charm packs are bundles of pre-cut squares, typically 5 x 5 inches. They often contain a variety of prints from a single fabric collection.
• Jelly Roll: Jelly rolls are bundles of pre-cut strips of fabric, typically 2.5 inches wide and the full width of the fabric (usually 44-45 inches).
• Layer Cake: Layer cakes are bundles of pre-cut squares, typically 10 x 10 inches.

5.3 Fabric Panels

Fabric panels are pre-printed designs on fabric, often used as the centerpiece of a quilt or for other projects like wall hangings, pillows, or bags. They can feature a single large image, a collection of smaller images, or a repeating pattern designed to be cut and used in a specific way.

5.4 Where to Buy: Quilt Shops and Online Retailers

The best places to find high-quality quilting fabric are:

Local Quilt Shops (LQS): Local quilt shops are a treasure trove for quilters. They offer:

• Curated Selections: Carefully chosen collections of high-quality quilting fabrics.
• Expert Advice: Knowledgeable staff who can help you choose fabrics, offer project ideas and provide guidance.
• Community: Often host classes, workshops and quilting groups, fostering a sense of community among quilters.

Online Fabric Retailers: Online retailers offer:

• Wider Selection: A vast array of fabrics from many different manufacturers and designers.
• Competitive Prices: Often offer discounts and sales.
• Convenience: Shopping from the comfort of your home.

Pros and Cons:

6. Choosing the Right Quilting Fabric: Factors to Consider

Selecting the perfect quilting fabric involves considering several factors:

• How the quilt will be used:
  1. Wall hanging: If the quilt will be a wall hanging, durability is less of a concern than if it will be a bed quilt.
  2. Bed quilt: For a bed quilt that will see regular use and washing, durability and washability are paramount.
  3. Baby quilt: Softness, washability and safety are key considerations for baby quilts.
• Desired durability and longevity: How long do you want the quilt to last? For an heirloom quilt, choose high-quality fabrics that will stand the test of time.
• Ease of working with the fabric: Consider your skill level. Some fabrics are more challenging to work with than others.
• Potential for shrinkage and color bleeding: Pre-washing helps mitigate these risks, but some fabrics are inherently more prone to shrinkage or bleeding than others.
• Aesthetic preferences: Ultimately, choose fabrics that you love! Consider:
  1. Colors: What colors appeal to you and complement your design?
  2. Prints and patterns: Do you prefer solids, florals, geometrics, or other designs?
  3. Textures: Do you want a smooth, flat fabric, or something with more texture?
• Quality indicators:
  1. Thread count: Higher thread count generally indicates better quality.
  2. Staple length: Look for long-staple or extra-long-staple cotton if possible.
  3. Fabric brand reputation: Some brands are known for their high-quality quilting fabrics.
• Budget: Quilting fabric can range in price from relatively inexpensive to quite costly. Set a budget before you start shopping.
• Personal Experience: skills and experience.
• The Specific requirements of the Project: Don’t be afraid to mix and match fabrics from different collections or manufacturers, but pay attention to the overall color scheme and design aesthetic.

7. Caring for Quilting Fabric: Pre-washing and Beyond

• It is generally recommended to wash and dry fabric before quilting to prevent shrinkage and bleeding and to remove chemicals.
• Test colorfastness by squeezing a damp white paper towel over the fabric.

8. FAQs About Quilting Fabric

8.1 Do I have to pre-wash quilting fabric?

Pre-washing quilting fabric is a hotly debated topic in the quilting world. It’s generally recommended, but not absolutely mandatory.

Pros of Pre-washing:

• Prevents Shrinkage: Most cotton fabrics shrink to some extent and pre-washing allows this shrinkage to happen before you cut and sew your quilt. This ensures your finished quilt will be the size you intended.
• Prevents Color Bleeding: Pre-washing removes excess dye and helps prevent colors from bleeding onto each other in the finished quilt.
• Removes Chemicals: Pre-washing removes sizing, finishes and other chemicals that may be present on the fabric from the manufacturing process.
• Tests for Colorfastness: It allows you to identify any fabrics that are prone to significant bleeding before you incorporate them into your quilt.

Cons of Pre-washing:

• Time-Consuming: It adds an extra step to the quilting process.
• Can Fray Edges: Pre-washing can cause the raw edges of the fabric to fray, potentially leading to some fabric loss.
• Some Quilters Prefer the “Crinkle” Effect: Some quilters prefer the slightly puckered, “crinkled” look that results from not pre-washing, as the fabric shrinks around the quilting stitches during the first wash of the finished quilt.

Recommendation:

• For large quilts or quilts intended for heavy use: Pre-washing is highly recommended.
• For small projects or wall hangings: Skipping pre-washing might be acceptable, but it’s still a good idea to test for colorfastness.
• If using pre-cuts: Pre-washing is generally not recommended, as the small pieces can distort easily.
• If using batik: Pre-washing is essential.

Ultimately, the decision of whether or not to pre-wash is a personal one. Weigh the pros and cons and consider the specific project you’re working on.

8.2 What’s the best way to store quilting fabric?

• Folded neatly: Fold fabric neatly to prevent wrinkles and creases.
• Away from direct sunlight: Sunlight can fade colors over time.
• In a dry place: Moisture can lead to mildew and damage.
• Consider plastic bins or containers: These can protect fabric from dust, pests and moisture.

8.3 Can I use old sheets for quilting?

Technically, yes, you can use old sheets for quilting, but it’s generally not recommended, especially for beginners.

• Potential Issues:
  1. Lower Quality Cotton: Old sheets may be made of lower-quality cotton or a cotton-polyester blend, which may not be as durable or as easy to work with as quilting cotton.
  2. Lower Thread Count: Sheets often have a lower thread count than quilting fabric, making them less stable and more prone to stretching or distorting.
  3. Wear and Tear: Old sheets may be worn thin in places, have pilling, or have faded colors.
  4. Unknown Fiber Content: If the sheets don’t have labels, you may not know the exact fiber content.
• If you
  1. Select sheets that are 100% cotton and in good condition (no holes, stains, or excessive wear).
  2. Pre-wash and dry the sheets thoroughly.
  3. Be prepared for potential challenges in terms of handling and durability.

8.4 What does “quilting weight” mean?

“Quilting weight” refers to a medium-weight fabric specifically designed for quilting. It’s:

• Heavier than lightweight apparel fabrics (like voile or lawn).
• Lighter than upholstery or home decor fabrics.

This weight provides the right balance of durability, ease of handling and suitability for piecing and quilting. It’s sturdy enough to hold up to cutting, sewing and washing, but not so heavy that it becomes difficult to work with.

8.5 Why are there so many different prints and colors of quilting fabric?

The vast array of prints and colors available in quilting fabric is a direct reflection of the creative and expressive nature of quilting. Quilting is an art form and quilters use fabric to create unique and visually appealing designs. The wide variety of options allows for:

• Creativity: Quilters can choose fabrics that reflect their personal style and vision.
• Personalization: Quilts can be customized to suit individual tastes and preferences.
• Visual Interest: The combination of different prints and colors creates depth, texture and visual appeal in the finished quilt.
• Thematic Variety: Allowing for holiday or special-event-themed quilts.

9. My Pack Love – Providing Service for Clothing Labels

My Pack Love specializes in providing high-quality custom labels and tags for clothing brands. We understand that even when creating quilts, you may want to add a custom label.

With over 8 years of experience in the garment industry, especially in processing labels, tags, zipper bags and poly mailers for clothes, we offer expertise and a commitment to quality. Visit mypacklove.com to explore our services and contact us for a quote.

Read more:

• Choosing Fabric for Custom Projects: A Guide to the Best Materials
• Fabric Paint vs. Dye: Choosing the Right One for Your Project
• How to print on fabric: Inkjet, stencils, stamps and more

While a wide variety of fabrics can be used for quilting, 100% cotton quilting fabric remains the preferred choice for most quilters and for good reason. Its plain weave, typically high thread count, often long-staple fibers, durability, ease of use and wide availability make it ideally suited for the quilting process. However, exploring other options like linen, flannel, or even batik can add unique texture and visual interest to your projects.

Ultimately, the most important thing is to choose fabrics that you love and that are appropriate for your project. Understanding the characteristics of different fabrics empowers you to make informed decisions and enjoy a successful and rewarding quilting experience. So, explore the world of quilting fabrics, experiment with different options and create beautiful quilts that will be treasured for years to come!